Reference
Standard Door Sizes Explained: Widths, Heights, and Custom Options
Door sizing seems simple until you're actually buying. There are standards, but every standard has exceptions. There's rough opening size, door size, and finish opening, and confusing them costs money and time. This reference walks through the sizes you'll actually encounter, what each measurement means, when you need custom, and how to measure your existing opening to get it right.
The three measurements that matter
Three different measurements describe a door installation:
- Door size — the dimensions of the door panel itself. This is what you order.
- Rough opening (RO) — the framed opening in the wall, before drywall and trim. Always larger than the door.
- Finish opening — the visible opening after drywall, jamb, and trim. Slightly smaller than the rough opening, slightly larger than the door.
For a standard 30"×80" door:
- Door: 30" × 80"
- Rough opening: 32" × 82-1/2" (door + 2" width, + 2-1/2" height for jamb and shimming)
- Finish opening: 30-3/4" × 80-3/4"
If you're doing new construction, you frame to RO. If you're replacing a door in an existing opening, the RO is already set — measure it and order to fit.
Standard interior door widths
Interior doors come in 2" increments:
- 24" — closets, narrow utility doors, sometimes secondary bathrooms in older homes
- 28" — closets, secondary bathrooms, half-baths
- 30" — most common bedroom and bathroom door size; also used for many closets
- 32" — primary bedrooms, larger closets, some passage doors. ADA-minimum for accessibility (32" clear opening).
- 36" — primary entries and major openings; sometimes for spacious primary bedrooms
For double-door openings, common combinations: 32"+32" (64" total), 30"+30" (60" total), 36"+36" (72" total). The two leaves are typically equal width.
Standard interior door heights
Heights have evolved over time. Older homes (pre-1970) almost universally used 80" doors. Newer construction often uses taller doors for more architectural feel.
- 80" (6'-8") — the historical standard. Still by far the most common height. Required if your ceiling is 8' (standard ceiling minus base trim and door frame leaves about 7-1/4" of clearance).
- 84" (7'-0") — common in homes with 9' ceilings. Adds visual height and matches modern architectural proportions. Increasingly common in LA new builds and remodels.
- 96" (8'-0") — for 10' ceilings or higher. Dramatic, requires deeper headers in framing. Common in Mediterranean and contemporary estates.
- Custom (over 96") — for grand entrances, cathedral ceilings, or architectural focal points. Custom build only.
If you're replacing existing doors, match the height. If you're renovating and considering taller doors, check ceiling height first — you need at least 4" of clearance between the door header and the ceiling for proper trim.
Entry door sizes
Entry doors follow similar conventions but trend larger:
- Width: 36" is by far the most common; 32" is acceptable for tight openings; 42" or 48" for grand single doors. Double doors at 60" (30"+30"), 64" (32"+32"), or 72" (36"+36"). Oversized estates can go to 96" or wider.
- Height: 80" historically; 84" is now extremely common in new construction; 96" for premium and oversized entries; over 96" custom only.
- Thickness: 1-3/4" is the modern standard; 2-1/4" is common for high-end solid timber Mediterranean and Spanish revival entries. Iron doors are typically 1-3/4" or 2".
Jamb width (for prehung)
If you're ordering prehung, you also pick the jamb width. This measures from the front face of the jamb to the back — i.e., the thickness of your wall.
- 4-9/16" — standard 2x4 wall with single-layer drywall on each side. Most interior walls in LA homes use this.
- 5-1/4" — 2x4 wall with double drywall (sometimes used for sound separation between rooms or for fire-rated walls)
- 5-1/2" — 2x4 wall with extra-thick drywall, common in some commercial conversions
- 6-9/16" — standard 2x6 exterior wall with insulation and standard drywall. Common for exterior doors and sometimes for sound-walled bedrooms.
- Custom — anything over 6-9/16" or non-standard. We can build to spec for $120 over standard.
To measure your existing jamb depth: from front face of jamb (where the casing meets the jamb) to back of jamb (where the drywall meets), straight through. Don't guess — bad measurement here means a prehung door that doesn't fit.
When to order custom
Order a custom-sized door when:
- Your rough opening is non-standard — common in homes built before 1980, in additions, or in conversions where the original framing wasn't intended for a door
- You want oversized proportions — 42"×96" entry doors aren't in any standard catalog but are increasingly common in luxury LA builds
- You need to match an existing custom door — most often when ordering a second entry door for a side or back entrance
- You're working in a historic home — original openings often don't match any modern standard size
Custom door upcharges:
- Custom width or height within ±2" of standard — $200–$400 over a stock door
- Significantly oversized (e.g., 48"×108" or 60"×120") — $800–$2,000 over stock equivalent
- Lead time for custom: 4–8 weeks vs 1–3 days for stock prehung. Plan accordingly.
For custom orders, send your rough opening dimensions to info@thedoorfather.com with reference photos and we'll quote within 1 business day. More on custom doors.
How to measure your existing opening
If you're replacing a door, measure carefully before ordering:
- Width: Measure the opening at the top, middle, and bottom. Use the smallest measurement (older homes settle, opening can be narrower at bottom or top).
- Height: From the floor (not the threshold or sill, the actual floor) to the underside of the header. Again, take it at the left and right of the opening and use the smallest.
- Jamb depth: From front face of casing (door trim) to the back face of the wall. Don't include the casing thickness.
- Square check: Measure the diagonal corner to corner both ways. If they're within 1/4" of each other, the opening is square. If they're off by more, you may need shimming or a custom-built jamb to fit.
For prehung orders, we ask for: door size, jamb width, hand (left or right), in-swing or out-swing. If you're unsure on any of these, send measurements and a photo — we'll work it out.
Frequently asked questions
Is the door size the rough opening or the actual door?
When we quote a 30"×80" door, that's the actual door size. Rough opening for that door is 32"×82-1/2" for a single. Always confirm what number you're working from when discussing with contractors.
What's ADA minimum for door width?
32" clear opening width — i.e., when the door is open at 90°, the unobstructed passage must be at least 32" wide. A 32" door doesn't quite achieve this (the door itself takes up some of the opening); use 36" doors for genuinely ADA-accessible openings.
Can I get a 7'-6" or 7'-8" door?
Yes — these are between standard 84" and 96" sizes. We can build to any height as a custom order. Lead time 4–8 weeks.
How do I measure for a pocket door?
Pocket doors require a frame kit with the wall opening dimension, plus the door slab itself. The frame is sized to your finished opening; the door slab is typically the finished opening width plus 1" (for overlap into the pocket). Frame kits come from a separate supplier; we provide the slab — confirm what slab size matches your frame kit before ordering.
Have a project to talk through?
Whatever you're working on, the fastest path is a phone call. We'll point you at the right doors — or build you something custom if nothing in the catalog fits.
(424) 466-7707 info@thedoorfather.com